A man at a laboratory bench setting a weight on a brass balance, in a long chalk-white raglan coat with a square of the same cloth set on its point over the near shoulder and one small red stitch at its centre.

16:30, the teaching laboratory

\frac{\partial ^{2} ω}{\partial u \partial v} = - K sin ω, K = \frac{1}{R ^{2}} ω (u, 0) = ω (0, v) = \frac{π}{2}, ∣ u ∣, ∣ v ∣ \leq \frac{3}{4} R ∣ P_{i + 1, j} - P_{i, j} ∣ = ∣ P_{i, j + 1} - P_{i, j} ∣ = \frac{R}{8}

Woven cloth does not stretch along its threads, but the angle between warp and weft is free. On 28 August 1878 Pafnuty Chebyshev read a paper on exactly that in Paris, Sur la coupe des vêtements, and showed the room a rubber ball covered in cloth cut by his formulas. In his model the angle ω between the threads obeys one equation: its mixed derivative along the two threads is minus the curvature of the body times sin ω. So a flat square can cover a round shoulder with no dart: every mesh keeps its four sides and leans, to 76° half a radius out along both threads and 58° at three quarters. It seemed to deserve a coat.

Equilibrium · Raglan laboratory coat in cotton-linen drill

Chebyshev Coat

CHF 380 working price

For the bench and the instrument room: a white coat cut like an overcoat, with shoulders that follow the arm and a slot for the chalk.

The white coat, cut as a man’s overcoat: raglan sleeves, a collar that buttons to the neck, dry cotton and linen drill the colour of chalk. Over each shoulder sits a square of the same cloth, set on its point: it was cut flat, it has no dart and no pad, and it is round because the weave has been made to lean, by a rule a mathematician worked out for tailors in 1878. One red stitch marks the point the rule starts from.

A study: nothing can be ordered yet. The photograph is a generated image, not a picture of a made piece or of a real person.

Drill 300: cotton and linen twill, 300 g/m², in Chalk; a twill, because a twill leans more readily than a plain weave, and its diagonal turns where the cloth has leaned. It washes at 40 °C; press the shoulders round afterwards, over a towel rolled into a ball. It is a coat, not protective equipment
Raglan sleeves. The cap of each shoulder is its own panel, a 12 cm square cut flat on the straight grain and set on its point: no dart, no pad. It is shaped with steam over a form, as a Chebyshev net on a ball of radius 8 cm: warp and weft cross square along the two threads that meet at the shoulder point; 4 cm out along both they cross at 76°, and at the corners, 6 cm out, at 58°. A stay tape inside keeps the shoulder line from stretching; a bar-tack at the centre of each square holds it, the left one in vermilion
A welt pocket on the chest with a slot for a stick of chalk and room for two pens; two pockets set in the side seams take the A5 notebook, and behind them slits pass through to your trouser pockets
Cut like a raglan overcoat: a collar that buttons to the neck or lies open, five horn buttons, a deep back vent; room in the sleeve for a jacket
Knee length, 104 cm on a 48. Cut for men, in Italian sizes 44 to 58. Outside: the horizon tab is the hanger loop, 40 × 5 mm, in the cloth
Cut for: Lab Notebook, Twelve and One

Chebyshev Coat

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