A man in a window seat on a lakeside train, legs crossed, reading a few stapled pages, in wide graphite herringbone flannel trousers whose turn-ups show the selvedge with its one red thread.

09:30, the train

A weave is a function on the integer lattice: w(i, j) = 1 where warp end i passes over weft pick j, 0 where it passes under. In a 2/2 twill every thread passes over two and under two, shifting one step with each row, which makes the diagonal; reverse the shift every eight ends, swapping over for under at the turn, and you have herringbone. The formula is the loom’s whole program, and Jacquard’s loom of 1804 read its own from punched cards.

Equilibrium · Pleated wool flannel trousers

Herringbone Trousers

CHF 280 working price

For the train to the conference: the back pocket takes a preprint folded twice, the right pocket a stick of chalk.

Wide, pleated, high on the waist. The pattern is not on the cloth; it is the order in which the threads cross.

Colour Graphite

Size

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  • Herringbone 320: wool woven as a 2/2 herringbone that turns every eight ends, 320 g/m²
  • High rise, two outward pleats, side adjusters; a 5 cm turn-up folded once and tacked
  • A chalk pocket inside the right front pocket, lined in drill; the back pocket takes a preprint folded twice
  • Outseam cut dead straight on the selvedge and pressed open, one end in vermilion: it shows on the turn-up. Wide straight leg, cut unisex in Italian sizes: a 42 is a women’s IT 40
  • Outside: the horizon tab at the back of the waistband, 40 × 5 mm, woven in the colour of the cloth
  • Cut for: Twelve and One

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